For many families, picking out the perfect Christmas tree is an annual tradition. But there are a few things you should keep in mind with your real Christmas tree to help keep it fresh through the holiday season.

Trim the trunk

Add a fresh cut across the bottom of the trunk. I know it seems odd since you just cut down the tree, but it’s necessary.

When the tree is first cut, sap rushes to close the gap and seal the bottom. That prevents the tree from absorbing the water. Adding a fresh cut at the bottom before you place it in water will help the tree take in the water and stay fresh through December.

It’s also recommended to put up the tree the same day you bring it home. But if you cant, you should store the tree in a cool place with water until you’re ready and able to set it up.

Buy a big enough stand

Make sure your tree stand is big enough for the tree and the water it will need.

Water, water, water

Always keep fresh-cut trees in water.

Don’t add sugar, Sprite or any other additives.

Watering trees twice a day, and even more often than that, in the beginning if you notice the tree drinking more water.

Choose an appropriate location

Location is key. Don’t place your tree in a window where it will get full sun. That will dry out the tree faster.

Also consider foot traffic and if any young or elderly family members or friends could trip and stumble over the tree.

Be cautious of heat sources

This goes back to location. Make sure your tree isn’t near a heater, fireplace or other heating and cooling sources. Those can dry out the tree or cause it to catch fire.

Check your lights

Before decking your tree, check your lights. Make sure there aren’t any exposed wires or missing bulbs. Smaller lights also produce less heat, which is beneficial with fresh cut trees.

Don’t leave your tree lit if you won’t be in the same room or at home with it. Real trees, especially if they are starting to dry, can catch fire. It’s important to follow general fire safety tips when you have a real Christmas tree indoors.

Check water levels daily

There’s the water thing again. Make sure you check the water level in your tree’s stand daily to ensure the water isn’t below the bottom of the trunk. If it becomes very dry, it can become a fire and safety hazard.

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HAY STORAGE

During each step of making, storing, and feeding hay, waste can add up quickly and become costly. With the current record-high prices seen in some regions, storage and feeding losses have never been more expensive.

Improved hay storage and feeding is something we should look at every year, Oklahoma State University during a recent webinar series. “Some of the waste can be controlled and minimized.”

Field losses will always occur when making hay, but certain areas of loss can be controlled. According to Freking, forage respiration losses can vary from 2% to 16%, depending on the area. Raking can cause 5% to 20% loss, which may depend on the type of rake. The best rake to use for minimizing waste depends on your situation and location. “If you’re trying to dry something down quicker, a rotary rake may be better. If you’re trying to save on cost, the wheel rake might be the tool to use.

Mitigate weather factors

The main factor that can’t be controlled when making hay is the weather. If hay is rained on after being cut, there can be dry matter losses of 8% to 17%, neutral detergent fiber (NDF) concentrations rise, and total digestible nutrients (TDN) percent declines.

He suggested that hay be stored in a barn to reduce waste. We typically only see 2% to 5% losses for hay stored in a barn, whereas for uncovered hay and hay stored outside there can be levels of loss around 25%.

Store bales off the ground to minimize spoilage. “If round bales are stored directly on the ground, we can see 5% to 20% loss in the first nine months, and if you are storing the hay even longer than that, you could see losses of up to 50%. If you can elevate the bales by putting them on a pallet, for example, the percentage of loss is greatly reduced.

To store hay in a location where water doesn’t puddle, and where bales are fully exposed to the sun. Allow some space between bales so that when it rains, the hay has a chance to completely dry.

For large round bales, most spoilage occurs in the outer layers. The amount of hay cattle will refuse to eat can be predicted. “If you can see a 6-inch outer layer on a 5-foot diameter bale, you’re losing about 35% of the dry matter of that bale, which can add up quickly.

Feeding options

When feeding hay, the feeder design can impact the amount of waste. An Oklahoma State University study found that a basket-type hay feeder has about 5% waste and a sheeted-bottom feeder has around 13% waste. Both conventional open-bottom hay rings and polyethylene pipe rings result in about 20% waste in a 72-hour period. Feeding hay without a feeder results in about 45% waste.

If hay is fed rolled out, allocating a day’s worth of hay at a time to minimize loss. “If you roll out a week’s worth of hay at a time, you are going to have a lot of waste,” Freking said. “A good goal is 85% utilization by allocating a day’s worth of hay at a time.”